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Sunday, November 1, 2009

Jared Lives: Shocking New Photographic Evidence!!; Welcome to Emua

Sorry for the long delay in posting pics here. I blame the lack of internet access in Vanuatu. And my own reluctence to use computers/electronic devices since their failures invariably tick me off like almost nothing else can possibly do. Anyway, as evidenced in the above photograph, I'm alive and well. This self-potrait was taken last week, the day we got our site assignments. I'm going to the island of Epi for the next two years, the village of Malvasi (consult your maps--Malvasi may not be on them but its close to Lamen Bay). More on that later.

Here's the view from the beach in front of my host families home. I've been waking up to it every day for the past two months. As you can probably imagine, not even the hundreds of pixels my digital camera can capture can really do this place justice. Visible to the left (in the picture on the right) is the island of Nguna. I took a boat out their one day to visit the medical dispensary way on top of a big hill. It's a pretty awesome place, much like Efate but just a little more rustic. To the right is (I believe, don't quote me) the island of Pele. We had a little going away beach bash there week before last. The mamas made us something called bunia--a dish, like all aelan food--composed mostly or entirely of root crops.

We left our training village (Emua on the northeast coast of Efate island) last week, however, and went to Vila, the capital. The picture below is of their house. The window to the left is (was) my room.

The big water tank in front of my window is where we get our drinking water. The taps are omly used for bathing and washing. I learned all this by doing a community water survey. One of things I may be working on in Malvasi is the water supply.

Below and to the right is a picture of one of Emua's many churches, in this case, the Presbyterian one. Mama blong mi (my host mama) is a wonderful, wonderful woman named Rose (eerily similar to Mama blong mi long Amerika nem blong hem, which, if my Bislama is correct, means America Mom's name). She's a deacon at this church. The family is generally pretty religious. They pray a lot and most of them abstain from smoking, drinking and kava. They go to this church or sometimes the Assemby of God church down the road every Sunday.

The picture below and to the left is of the village Community Center. It's where many of our Peace Corps classes were held. Big community meetings are held here, too. I also intended to out a picture of the village Co-op on here, but evidently I didn't take one. Anyway, It's the town's grocery store. It has many of the essentials of life, including food, personal hygiene stuff (like the Chinese brand deoderant of questionable efficacy that rips up hair and leaves a rash as red and angry as that country's autocratic regime) and fresh fruit of a tropical variety. Also, if you happen to be lucky that day, you might also find some REFRIDGERATED or partially REFRIDGERATED water or even Coke.

Pictured to the left is the nakamal my brother Norman built right on the beach (pictured above, the one in front of our house). A nakamal is a kava bar, where one goes to drink kava. Kava is a strange root or plant or something that grows all over the south Pacific. People grind it up and turn it into a really disgusting green drink. If you can keep this awful brew down it does some pretty cool things to your frontal lobe, like chilling you out and filling you with a warm sense of well-being and uncharacteristic degree of sociability. It is possible to get kava drunk, though, an experience which bears an uncanny resemblance to regular alcohol drunk (though without the hangover). Drinking kava is what guys in Vanuatu do for fun, generally on a daily basis.

Here's a picture of my friend Ryan's host papa. He has a nakamal in his front yard. I have whiled away many an evening there, drinking some of that nasty kava he's holding. His name is George and he makes probably the best kava in town (except, of course, the family kava). There are different varieties and strains of kava from different islands. Every island claims to have the best, but in my personal opinion that accolade properly belongs to Malakula. Drinking kava well is a quick way to earn the respect of local Ni-Van guys and to that end I became the only white man in the town's history to drink a 300 shell at once (they range in size from 50-300).

Below are some pictures of my room at my host families house. Note the Bob Marley theme. I like his music, but in Vanuatu Marley is a god. Lots of people wear Bob Marley shirts or Bob Marley lavalavas (a sort of island skirt thing that doubles as a shawl or blanket). The blue thing over my bed is my mosquito net. We haven't gotten bad mosquitos yet...or much of any at all, actually. They're coming, though. Rainy season starts this month!!


  1. Thanks for the pic! Are you letting your beard grow until you return to the US??? No shaving for you!

    Hope all is well. UB and I enjoy every update we get. Sounds like you are really into this adventure. We so enjoy your take on what you are seeing and doing. I hope that you are journaling like crazy because it will be a good read!

    We love you and think of you often. AN

  2. You look mahhhhhhhhhvalous! SO WONDERFUL TO SEE YOUR SWEET FACE!!! Looks like Vanuatu agrees with you. Can't wait to get your next letter. Did you receive your second package from us yet? Lovelovelove, Mom

  3. Hey, Hairy Man! Looks like palm trees and spear fishing agree with you! I'm working on getting a new laptop for Papa so he'll be able to follow your blog along with the rest of us. This is just too exciting, as we all live vicariously through you for the next two years. Can't wait for the first official post! Love&hugs&you'll-be-getting-a-package-from-me-soon, Auntie L

  4. But Papa shouldn't spend money on a laptop just for my blog!! I'm in Vila until Tuesday so there'll hopefully be a few more posts, but after that it'll be MUCH less often. There isn't even any cell phone coverage in Malvasi, much less any internet access!!

  5. Papa's not buying a laptop JUST FOR YOU, oh narcissistic one! But yes, you'd be the main attraction on the 'net, no doubt about it. Anywho, are you still working on this post? At the time I read it, looks to be missing a couple of pics. And we LOVE those pics! Keep 'em coming!
    Kava cheers, Auntie L

  6. I am like AL, more pics, more pics!!! BTW, has anyone startd printing tee-shirts and lavalavas of you since you took the step up on the winners podium for the "300 shell at once"! I want to order a pink one for AL and a yellow one for your Mom for Christmas.

    Love you and thanks for the updates - AN

  7. Hey Jared the pics are great. We are glad to look and see that you finally posted something, we were getting a little worried. I hope this trip is an adventure of a lifetime and everything you expect it to be and more. Enjoy everyday and absorb as many fantastic stories and as much knowledge as possible. Derric and Katie Jones